Wednesday, 23 May 2007

The Size Zero Debate

One of the biggest issues in the fashion world at the moment is the size zero debate. The majority of models strutting their stuff on the catwalks are size zero, (a size 4 in the UK) and are wearing clothes that would fit an average 7 year old!

Spain was the first country to ban size zero models on their catwalks, but British Fashion Week recently refused to impose a similar ban. Why are fashion designers and people within the industry obsessed with size zero? Surly the clothes they have been working on will not be shown off and worn to their full potential on a skinny, twig-like frame. It seems that as a society we are going from one extreme to the other, some of us are over-weight and others are equally underweight. The happy, healthy figure is becoming increasingly uncommon.

Weight loss surgery company Surgicare recently surveyed over 2,000 men and women of all age groups over 16 and found that size 10 was the most popular dress size, with size 14 following. However, younger people (aged 16-25) were more likely to be influenced by the media and thought that sizes 4-10 were ideal.

So this is the source of this rapidly growing problem? The media! Pictures of celebrities are constantly in the newspapers, magazines and on TV, who are severely underweight and are influencing the younger generation in the wrong ways.

Lately there have been a few documentary experiments on the effects of slimming down to a size zero on TV. The Truth About Size Zero, was broadcasted on ITV on the 7th March 2007. Louise Redknapp slimmed down to a size zero in 30 days for the documentary to show the dangers of crash dieting. The naturally curvy star, 32, dropped from a size 8 down to a US size zero by fasting and enrolling in a punishing fitness boot camp.

Louise explained why she embarked on the mission to become stick thin saying; “I grew up in the entertainment industry. I’ve always felt even at a size 8 that I’ve never quite been skinny enough. There was always the pressure that if I could have lost half a stone it would have been better. It’s such a lot of pressure on a young woman and if I was feeling like that, I know a lot of other young women were also feeling like that.”

In the experiment, Louise ate just 700 calories a day whilst doing a strenuous boot camp style work out. She also ran three miles a day. She suffered many negative effects as a result, such as bad skin, shrinking breasts, fluctuating moods, tiredness, white and red blood count reduction and a temporarily compromised immune system.

Louise admitted she liked her new size zero frame, but felt terrible enjoying being smaller. She was frightened she might become addicted to be that size, the health effects of which would be very dangerous. Long term damage of this kind of crash dieting includes infertility and osteoporosis.

Louise is now back to her healthy weight and concludes the whole experience was extremely tough, she will never diet ever again and hopes the documentary will do some good in highlighting the dangers of crash dieting. She goes on to say that being skinny and a size zero does not equal success and while some women are naturally thin, many are not and if they are desperate to try to reach it, it will almost certainly spell misery and ill health.

Layla Smith, Controller of Alternative Programmes at ITV said; “Dangerously thin celebrities have been on the front of countless magazines and size zero has become the debate of the moment. The Truth About Size Zero will show exactly how damaging the pursuit of the lollipop look really is.”

Super-Skinny Me: The Race to Size Zero, was broadcasted on Channel 4 a few weeks after the ITV documentary. Two British journalists tried out various different and extreme diets for six weeks. They attempted to get to size double zero, (a UK size 2) with constant medical support and guidance for the women. The documentary was very disturbing. The women’s state of mind changed dramatically in a matter of weeks. When they started, they were both very healthy size 12’s and said although there are parts of there bodies they don’t like, they have never really been that bothered about their weight.

Kate Spicer, one of the journalists said “Models have always been thin and while some have issues, generally the model’s body is an extraordinary one; they are a gangly slender breed unto themselves. More fascinating- and alarming- are the lengths other women will go to physically and mentally to keep themselves well under their natural body weight; and the extent to which most of them think their natural weight is essentially fat.”

In week one, Kate Spicer, tested the Master Cleanse diet, a concoction of lemons, cayenne pepper, maple syrup and spring water. She had to drink this 3-4 times a day with no solid foods. Two days of drinking this potion she finds it very difficult to work becoming agitated, bored and loss of attention span. She said “My legs might look sturdy, but they struggle to climb up stairs and my head is light as a feather.”

Kate then eats about 500 calories of nuts a day so she can do her job and is smoking a lot more. She also begins to enjoy the feeling of ‘emptiness’ by the end of the week and drinks two pints of salty water to cleanse her bowel and encourage the ‘emptiness’ feeling. Obviously this is not very healthy.

Week three; Kate’s state of mind alters. “My mind is warped and I have arrived at planet thin where all that really matters- forget about art, literature, love, family, career- is getting thinner. I am a food phobic!” Kate takes a week off work so she can focus purely on the experiment and decides to go to a detox retreat in Kettering. Taking some laxatives, having daily colonics and consuming nothing but fruit juice is her plan for the week. “I am becoming very stupid and obsessed!” she says.

After her week at the retreat she visits the doctor in charge of the experiment and tells him about the laxatives, he immediately sends her to a psychiatrist. “After a cold hour of being grilled, the psychiatrist says I have the potential to develop bulimia and I am told to start eating properly and quit the experiment.”

Kate’s personality, life and opinions changed dramatically within these 4 weeks. The other journalist slimmed down to a size double zero. They are both back to their healthy weights and insist that it is something that has changed their lives forever. Kate said; “I have seen the dark side now and I never want to go back to that.”





Both these “shock doc’s” were shown in the evening after the watershed. Now after seeing them it’s understood why as they are so disturbing, however, should it be available for younger people to see the dramatic effects it has on the body and state of mind? Whilst Louise Redknapp did her experiment she talked to many people who have been touched by the “thinspiration” trend including patients as young as 12 years old at an eating disorder clinic.

Ironically, after the documentaries were shown on TV, Victoria Beckham pledged she is to ban size zero models from promoting her new denim label. The size zero, ex-Spice girl, who has been nicknamed “Skeletal Spice” says she wants to give a positive image that “You don’t have to be ultra skinny to look good.” A source said; “Victoria doesn’t want to be accused of giving young girls a complex about their image, putting pressure on them to be as skinny as her.” Hopefully more fashion labels will take on this attitude and in future size zero may no longer be an issue.

Eco fashions

Eco-fashions have had serious image problems in the past. People associated them with eco-warriors in baggy Thai fisherman’s trousers and unflattering smock tops. But this is all about to change.

Eco fashions are actually starting to become cool! Last year, Vogue devoted 10 pages to ethical clothing and at London fashion week an exhibition space was made dedicated to 13 ethical labels.
So what is eco fashions? It is where organic clothes are made with as few chemicals as possible and with a minimum of damage to the environment. Cotton uses more pesticides per cotton plant than almost any other crop in the world. This has serious impacts, causing illness and death amongst the cotton farmers who are exposed to the dangerous pesticides everyday. The pesticides also affect local eco systems, killing plants and animals around them.

Many high street stores are launching eco friendly clothing ranges, so you can look amazing and help the environment too!
Topshop’s flagship Oxford Circus store now houses Fairtrade-certified and organic concessions- e.g. People Tree and Made.
M&S has pledged that 5% of it’s cotton will be organic by 2012.
Dorothy Perkins launched an organic-cotton range, The O line, which includes vests and t-shirts, in sizes 8-22.
Levi’s added 100% organic cotton jeans to their 2006 product line and they’re known as “Levi’s eco”. Not only are they made from 100% organic cotton but they have recycled buttons, rivets and zippers, and natural indigo is used to dye some styles of jeans.

Small, independent fashion labels have also furrowed the green path. Brighton based Enamore sells everything from pretty hand made kimono tops to delicate hemp knickers, which are far more appealing than they sound.
Large companies are catching on too. Timberland, which sells eco-friendly footwear made with vegetable tanned leather and recycled rubber soles, is launching a reforestation project- it will plant one new tree for each pair of shoes they sell.

Many of celebrities that are jumping on the eco-clothing bandwagon. Bono and his wife Ali Hewson have collaborated with New York fashion designer Rogan Gregory to create http://www.edun.ie/, a socially conscious fashion label, with a crucially stylish twist.

Other than Bono, Sienna Miller backs People Tree, the eco-friendly label stocked in Topshop. And Hollywood stars Lindsay Lohan and Jessica Simpson love funky designs from American Apparel- a sweatshop-free clothing range.
So how can we help the environment when it comes to fashion? For a start choose Organic cotton. It’s grown without the use of chemical pesticides and insecticides. Apart from damaging health and the environment, these chemicals are extremely expensive for farmers, so if they can be cut out of the process everybody gains! A typical conventional cotton t-shirt uses 150grams of acutely toxic pesticides and insecticides, that’s the size of a cup of sugar!

Nylon and Polyester are made from petrochemicals, which are very harmful to the environment, contributing to global warming. They are also non-biodegradable, which means they don’t break down easily and are difficult to dispose of. In order to manufacture nylon, nitrous oxide is released as part of the process. Nitrous oxide is a greenhouse gas that is 310 times stronger than carbon dioxide and contributes to global warming.

Viscose is an artificial fibre made from wood pulp. To make viscose, wood pulp is treated with toxic chemicals such as caustic soda and sulphuric plantations acid. Old growth forests are often cleared and subsistence farmers are displaced to make way for pulpwood
Virtually all polycotton (especially bed linen) and all easy care, crease resistant and permanent press cottons are treated with the toxic chemical formaldehyde which also contribute to global warning and cause serious illnesses.

Look out for linen as it is made from flax which is a traditional fibre crop which needs few chemical fertilisers and less pesticides than cotton. Also try hemp as it is extremely breathable, softer and more absorbent than cotton; it will also keep you warmer in the winter! It looks a lot like linen, feels like flannel and lasts 2-3 times longer than most other fabrics. Hemp is better for the environment in many ways, it’s cultivations as it’s pest resistant so it doesn’t need any pesticides.

Katherine Hamnet, 59, is the original eco fashion pioneer. She said; “I find it really reassuring that more and more consumers are taking an interest in ethical fashion now. They are the ones that can make the difference, because ultimately they are the people the industry will listen to. There are lots of ways to make a difference. We must all try to do our bit.”

Phoning or writing to your favourite shops asking them to stock organic cotton ranges, or visit www.katherinehamnett.com for more ideas and discover more about her E range.

Supermarket Fashions

Supermarket fashions are becoming more popular than ever. Now its so easy to do pick up a new top for the weekend and throw it in the trolley with your bread and milk .

The two biggest stores taking fashion to a whole new level are Tesco and Asda. A recent report by Verdict showed that Tesco has over-taken high street stores like BHS and River Island in the most used clothing retailers in the UK, coming ninth place. Asda have famously said that it has caused a “fashion democracy” and no one is excluded from looking stylish by the price of an item.

With Jeans and tops on sale for just 3 quid its so easy to see why people are drawn to the supermarkets to up date their wardrobe. Students and young mothers are their most popular customers at these stores because of the low prices and good quality items. Stores also have a growing amount of older female customers who want to look young and fashionable but feel uncomfortable walking into hip high street stores such as Top Shop and River Island.

To think only a few years ago there was massive stigma towards wearing supermarket fashion, in fact shoppers admitted in a survey they used to cut the labels out of their cheap and cheerful items. Now supermarkets have turned a corner and shoppers are wearing supermarket brands with pride. The turnover began with the famous green dress Tesco’s Fred and Florence designed which retailed at 45 pounds. It was so similar to the dress Chloe designed and was worn by Kylie Minogue with a price tag of 1,400 pounds. The dress was so popular it was voted the “must have of the season” by Marie Claire and was off the shelves due to high demand in a matter of weeks.

With celebrities like Victoria Beckham and Coleen McLoughlin plastering our newspapers and magazines in their designer gear it’s becoming very difficult for people to keep up-to-date with the latest fashions without breaking the bank. Supermarkets have made it so easy and convenient to copy celebrity fashions.

Other supermarkets like Sainsbury’s are following in the footsteps of their competitors and starting fashion labels of their own to reap, in a chance to get in on the action and reap the massive benefits Tesco and Asda have had in the last few years.

So now women’s fashion and men’s for that matter is now no longer expensive and the clothes you see in the magazines are not out of your reach or budget- they are just in your local supermarket.


Here is what a few shopper thought when we asked them what they thought about supermarket fashions:

“I love it! Especially when the kids need new clothes, I don’t mind now when my son comes home from school with a whole in the knee of his trousers because they cost me a couple of quid from Asda and they are easily replaceable.” Helen, Truro

“It’s really bad, I go to Tesco to get some milk and a few things before I go home from work and end up buying a new top or pair of shoes! This year I’ve bought more clothes and shoes than probably in my life.”
Kirsten, Camborne

“My partner doesn’t know I’ve been buying so many clothes. It’s great, the new top I bought is hidden in the shopping bags and is amongst the nappies, baked beans I bought on the Tesco receipt.” Joanna, Redruth

“I think it’s a great idea and I’m pleased it’s working. It’s about time we had affordable clothing and at places we can get to easily. I don’t always have the time to come into town to do a bit of retail therapy. Only bad point is, there is no changing rooms but its not as if its difficult to get back to the store to change it, as ill be back in there in a week.” Hollie, Pool